January 12-15, 2009

While the Milford Track spends much of its time in valleys, with only a few hours in alpine terrain, the Kepler Track spends a whole day in the alpine.  By alpine, I mean above “bushline,” where there are no trees and the views are wide open.  The Kepler Track even has a hut in this environment, the Luxmore Hut.  This was probably my favorite hut of the entire NZ trip due to its location and fantastic views!  The weather was also very nice during the time I did this track, with not a drop of rain falling the entire four days.  Low clouds did obscure views on the alpine day, but the clouds moved around enough that I didn’t feel like I really missed any views.  And besides, low clouds make for interesting pictures!

The Kepler Track is one of the newer tracks in New Zealand, opening in 1988.  Since the track forms a loop and it comes close to Te Anau, transport for the Kepler Track is inexpensive, in fact it is easy to walk to and from the track from Te Anau.  I took the lazy way out to get to the track and paid the NZ$6 for the bus, but returning I just walked the lakeside path back to Te Anau.  There are also a couple of ways to make the track shorter, by taking a boat over to Brod Bay for the start, or by finishing up at Rainbow Reach where bus transport is also available.

The three huts on this track are in three distinct environments.  The Luxmore Hut already mentioned is in an alpine environment.  The Iris Burn Hut is in a forested valley.  And the Moturau Hut is on the shores of large Lake Manapouri.  This makes for a varied tramp as you progress around the track.

Mon. Jan 12:  At Luxmore Hut on the Kepler Track, arrived 2:30 or so after taking a bus to Control Gates, level hike to Brod Bay, then uphill to some awesome views once above bushline!  Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri were both visible, Lake Te Anau is in the view from the hut!  This hut is the highest so far at a bit over 1000 meters.  Met a guy from UK tramping alone named Ian.  He has come to NZ annually for quite a few years.  Many trampers here are going in the same direction (“anti-clockwise”), so will see many of them next two nights.  A kea was flying around the hut earlier looking for something to get into.

Lake Te Anau from above bushline, boardwalk across alpine terrain, and the Luxmore Hut

Tue. Jan 13:  Tough day, but beautiful views despite lots of low clouds in the morning.  Track stayed high for most of the day, above bushline.  Views of Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri.  Climbed Mt. Luxmore also.  End of the day was a huge 900m drop to Iris Burn Hut.  My right leg was hurting during the downhill, fortunately there are easier days ahead.  Tomorrow is a slow drop of around 300m, next day is fairly level with an option to exit early.  Following that, I have three more days of 12km tramping the Rakiura, for seven days in a row of tramping.  There is a waterfall near here, a 20 minute walk away—I may do that later today.

Some views from the day’s beautiful alpine walk.  This was one of my favorite days of the trip!

Iris Burn Falls

Wed. Jan 14:  I took the walk to the waterfall yesterday evening—it was small but pretty, and I was there alone so I wanted to linger but the sandflies drove me to hike back to the hut.  Nice weather again today for the mostly downhill tramp to Moturau Hut on the shore of Lake Manapouri.  My knees are still hurting on the downhill.  Pretty location here but lots of sandflies.  Tomorrow I complete the Kepler Track and back to Te Anau.

“Big Slip” on south side of Iris Burn Valley, Iris Burn flows into Lake Manapouri, and Moturau Hut

Thu. Jan 15:  Easy hike out today, following the river between lakes.  Left around 8am, got to Te Anau just before 1pm (around 12 miles!).  Decided to walk to the Control Gates then along the lake to Te Anau.  Now time for chores in prep for Rakiura tomorrow.