January 16-19, 2009

The Rakiura Track is one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks,” nine walks (one is actually a river trip) that are maintained to a higher standard.  The Milford, Kepler, and Routeburn Tracks are also Great Walks.  The Rakiura Track is different from those in that it cannot be booked ahead, and, at least when I was on it, was much less popular.  It was kind of nice to get away from the large groups doing the Milford and Kepler Tracks.  In fact, Stewart Island itself is quite uncrowded.  The only town on the island, known by two different names, Oban and Halfmoon Bay, has a population of around 400 people.

As soon as I arrived on Stewart Island, I went to get my “Great Walks Pass” from the visitor center, which I needed to do the Rakiura Track.  And I started walking the track right after that, following roads for the first few kilometers.  I had two nights in a hotel in Oban after the track.

Stewart Island is one of the best places to see kiwis.  Normally kiwis are nocturnal birds, but on Stewart Island they frequently remain active until mid or late morning, as they need to forage longer due to the conditions on the island.  Unfortunately though, this sign is the closest I got to seeing a kiwi on this island.

Fri. Jan 16:  Bus and boat to Stewart Island this morning, arriving at 12:30.  Boat trip was a bit rough, but I didn’t see anyone actually get sick (a few looked a little sick though).  To the visitor center where I picked up a hut pass and hired a locker for my small duffel.  Off tramping at around 1:30.  First 5km was road walk, someone offered me a ride but I declined.  Walk was mostly in forest, with some views of the ocean and a section of beach walk on Maori Beach.  Reached Port William Hut around 5:30pm.  Only three others here now (7:10pm), quite quiet!  A different experience from the crowded Milford & Kepler Tracks.  Rain was forecast, but only got a few sprinkles 20 minutes before reaching the hut.  Forecast for tomorrow looks ok, we’ll see how it turns out.

At the sign in Bluff before boarding the boat to Stewart Island, local public phone, and chain link starting the Rakiura Track

Sat. Jan 17:  Nobody else showed up at the hut last night, so we had only four.  I had my own bunkroom, as one guy slept in the kitchen.  Got some rain early morning but it had mostly stopped when I left at 8:30.  Just a few sprinkles while walking today.  The track was mostly boardwalk today, with short sections of mud and tree roots between.  Nice lookout tower at the high point gave a view of Halfmoon Bay area and Paterson Inlet.  Arrived at North Arm Hut around 2:15, one other person had arrived a bit before me.  Now I get to kick back the rest of the afternoon!

Typical middle-day track—boardwalk through ferns and forest, view from lookout tower at high point, North Arm Hut

Sun. Jan 18:  Only three of us at the hut—a Japanese guy showed up later.  Got a little rain in the late afternoon & evening, and in the morning before I got up.  Sky was mostly blue when I left at 8am, but light sprinkles came on and off most of the day.  Track went up & down as yesterday over boardwalks interleaved with mud patches.  Last part was a former road without much up & down, then actual road through town.  Got to the DOC office around 1pm.  Checked into South Sea Hotel, nice room with double bed and shared bathroom.  Booked the Paterson Inlet cruise for tomorrow.

Views from the day’s walk

Mon. Jan 19:  Day to mostly relax today.  Took the Paterson Inlet cruise at 1:00, which was interesting.  Especially enjoyed the walk on Ulva Island—lots of birds including a bold weka that bit someone’s toe!  Interesting weather today—maybe typical of islands.  Brief rain interleaved with clearing and sun, over and over all day.  No rain during the inlet cruise or Ulva Island hike though!  Weather should be improving over the next few days.

Scenes from today.  The flightless bird is a weka, seen on Ulva Island

Tue. Jan 20:  The ride back to Bluff was a little smoother than the ride over.  Different boat—this one had seats all the way across—no booths like the one I came over on, and the same one used for the Paterson Inlet cruise.  Bus to Invercargill with a wait at the i-site there for the Tracknet bus.  Another bus switch in Mossburn.  That bus was late, so got to Queenstown a little late, around 2:30.  Town chores and pizza on the agenda.

The “Foveaux Express” that would take us back to the south island docked in Halfmoon Bay, and the visitor terminal

Thoughts on tramping in New Zealand—Tramping in NZ is quite different than hiking, or really, backpacking, in the US.  It is more of a social experience, with folks gathering in the huts at night.  Great opportunities for exchanging stories and meeting people from all over the world.  It has its downsides too, mainly in lack of privacy and having to deal with the noise (including snoring) made by others.  In the trees, the bush is a lot thicker than in California (at least in the Sierra), making off-trail travel very difficult.  Not having to carry a tent and sleeping pad (and bear cannister) lightens the load, partially offset by heavier rain gear and more food per day due to myself not losing appetite at these “low” elevations.  The more popular great walks (Milford, Kepler, Routeburn) are much more crowded than the just-finished Rakiura Track, which was surprisingly un-crowded.  Maybe I just hit it “lucky” as I heard a story of an overcrowded hut recently, with folks sleeping on the kitchen floor!

Kitchen in North Arm Hut