January 7-11, 2009

When planning this trip, I had to decide which tracks to do, and then which order to do the tracks.  I decided to do the Milford Track first since it was the best known of the tracks and has a reputation for being beautiful.  If something would have happened that prevented me from doing more tramping, I wanted to have at least the Milford Track completed!

The Milford Track has been called the “finest walk in the world.”  It was the rainiest weather I had on any of the tracks, but that was to be expected.  The Arthur Valley gets an average of 8 meters of rain per year!  The rain has its advantages on this track, as numerous waterfalls appear that exist only during and immediately after rainfall.  Flooding can be a problem on this track, and although there was a risk of flooding for us, we never had to walk through any water that was more than ankle deep.

Being so popular, the Milford Track is highly regulated.  There are two sets of trampers on the track, the guided and the independent.  The guided trampers have different huts, which have more “comfortable” accommodations, with hot showers, bedding, and food cooked for you.  Thus, all that needs to be carried during the day is clothing, lunch, and a camera.  Independent trampers have to carry their food for the whole track from the beginning, cookware, and a sleeping bag.  The Milford Track has stoves provided in the huts and space in the huts is reserved in advance, thus it wasn’t necessary to carry a stove or a camp mattress.  A limited number of independent and guided trampers are allowed to start the track each day, and all must walk in the same direction and stay in each hut for one night.  Bookings for the track begin in July for the entire summer season, and they book up soon after opening!

The regulation on this track has its advantages.  Since everyone is walking in the same direction, it doesn’t seem as crowded as you generally don’t meet anyone coming the other way.  And since the guided and independent huts are offset from each other, theoretically the guided and independent trampers don’t meet up very often.  Due to some of the weather issues we had (which delayed departure from the huts in the morning), we ended up running into guided walkers fairly frequently.

Both ends of the Milford Track are on water, and don’t connect directly with roads.  In order to get to the start of the track, a boat from Te Anau Downs travels up to the northern tip of Lake Te Anau for the start of the track.  At the end, a boat picks up at Sandfly Point for the short ride to the small town of Milford Sound.

Bunkroom in Clinton Hut, leaving Mintaro Hut on a rainy morning

Wed. Jan 7:  First day on Milford Track.  After heavy rain yesterday, just a few sprinkles today (so far).  Bus and boat to get to the start of the track, then just 1½ hour hike to Clinton Hut.  Fairly fancy complex here, with two bunkhouses and a kitchen/dining building.  Ranger had a walk at 5pm, mostly looking at the plants in the area, including “pepper tree” with leaves with a distinct flavor.  Worries about flooding on the track tomorrow as rain is expected tonight.

The dock at the start of the track was flooded!

Thu. Jan 8:  Sign on kitchen this morning instructing us not to leave the hut, with update at 8.  Given the all-clear at 8, expected waist-deep flooding did not materialize.  Long hike up valley, lots of waterfalls down both sides.  Sprinkled most of the day, but I found I was better off without rain jacket & pants as it is quite warm.  Got to Mintaro Hut around 3pm, almost the last one here!  Spent a good part of the day hiking with Chuck from New Mexico.  Good day, but tired now.  More rain expected tomorrow, then “fine” the next day.

Hazy day obscured the views of Mackinnon Pass, but waterfalls were flowing strongly!

Fri. Jan 9:  Started the day with rain, after raining all night.  Rain continued up to Mackinnon Pass, which was clouded in and a little windy.  Made it to the shelter at the pass and got warmed up.  Saw about 6 keas there.  Views into Clinton Valley opened up from time to time, rain stopped and clouds started clearing when I started down the pass around 1pm.  Long tramp down with waterfalls and creeks everywhere!  Took the side track to Sutherland Falls, went a bit too close and got wet again!  Then it was about an hour to Dumpling Hut.  Weather tomorrow should be clearing, might even see the sun!

Views from Mackinnon Pass into Clinton Valley (had to act quickly when the clouds cleared briefly!), and a kea on the roof of the shelter at the pass

Sutherland Falls

Sat. Jan 10:  Got an early start for the 11 mile hike to Sandfly Point.  Sky was mostly blue with a few puffy white clouds!  On the track at 7:50, easy tramp, mostly level, past waterfalls and Lake Ada.  Caught the boat at 3:15pm.  Checked into Milford Sound Lodge for the night, kayak trip tomorrow at 7:15am.

Looking back with calm Arthur River, Giant Gate Falls, and first views of Milford Sound

Sun. Jan 11:  Just back from an awesome kayaking trip on Milford Sound—beautiful weather and beautiful scenery!  Waiting for the bus back to Te Anau.  Had awesome “bunk mates” last night—early to bed and quiet.  J   One woman left at 5:30am for a kayaking trip and barely made a sound.  I tried to do the same at 6:45.  Had a kayak mate from Ireland—have a couple of pics to email him.  Right now the forecast looks good for the Kepler—at least the first few days.

Views of Milford Sound on the kayaking trip

Thoughts on NZ tramping– much more “luxurious”:  flush toilets, running water, stoves, tables, daily weather reports, and of course mattresses and a roof overhead!  Rainier than California!  Off-trail would be rally tough—maybe above treeline—or “bushline” as they call it here.  Milford Track had opportunity to get to know people as you all travel together and meet up at least each night.  Very different than hiking in US, not sure yet which I “prefer”…

Lots of nationalities represented:  US (NM, MN, CO), Netherlands, Germany, Israel, and more that I didn’t get.  A family from Australia finished the track the day before (met them at Milford Lodge), said they had to wade through deep water, and were helicoptered over part of the last day’s tramp!  Milford Lodge is cool…  Rooming with a couple that just finished the Routeburn.

Sitting in the lounge at Milford Lodge—some observations.  Seems the thing to do here is sit in the lounge with a bottle of wine to sip.  There is a guitar in here that various people have been playing.  Some folks are playing board games that they have available, some are reading (as I was doing).  And some are on the internet.  I don’t see anyone with earbuds in like you see at home.

Mitre Peak from Deepwater Basin in Milford Sound